Are popular lip oils sure to use? A doctor explains

In recent years, lip oils have become more popular among beauty consumers. Similar to the lip shine, the oils give the lips a brilliant appearance, but they also serve as care products that are designed to keep the lips hydrated.

“When they do the right thing, the lip oils promote shine and hydration, and they can even promote lip repulse,” said Dr. Rebecca Small, clinical professor at the University of California in San Francisco.

But the ingredients count, says small. “Patients sometimes report increased pigmentation on their lips due to the use of these products.”

A popular lip oil started on Tiktok with photos of women showing their lips before and after using the product in a coherent manner. Social media users, mainly colored women, have experienced intense hyperpigmentation that lightens is the result of the addition of lip oil to their skin care routine.

Here is why some lip oils can cause hyperpigmentation and what to consider when choosing a lip oil product.

Understanding the lip anatomy is an important first step to obtain a clear image of the reason why certain lip oils can cause hyperpigmentation, says Small.

The skin on the lips is much thinner than the skin on your face, which makes it more sensitive to dehydration and the damage of the sun, she explains. “It does not have the same type of UV defense as the rest of our skin, and it is subject to cancers (and) hyperpigmentation.”

A skin condition that people can live is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, that is to say when inflammation of the skin leads to increased melanin production and the darkening of certain areas of the body, says Small.

“If you use a product which, for example, has no UV protection, you are expanding exposure to UV with a lip oil. So, if there is no SPF, you are more subject to PIH,” she said.

“And if there are ingredients in the product that resemble reculpped ingredients, sometimes these repulvant ingredients can be irritants.”

Another possibility is that people are developing dermatitis, which is very common after using products that contain perfumes. “The dermatitis which is irritating or linked to allergy means that your lips or other areas of your body are red, scaly (and) uncomfortable,” says Small.

It is important to see a health professional if your lips suffer, swelling excessively, extremely red or much darker than usual, cracked or rare, she notes. And you should immediately stop using any product which in your opinion causes these symptoms.

Not all lip oils have the same effects on your lips, and some can even lead to better skin health.

“A little advice for people (is) to watch and see what are the ingredients, rather than just looking at brand names. Really watching the ingredients,” says Small.

“I would say that the safest choice for lip oil that hydrates and really nourishes your lips has a broad SPF spectrum, especially when you are outside.”

Here are some of the recommendations that she shared for what to look for and avoid, in the lip oil you use.

Do

• Broad spectrum SPF
• Linoleic acids like evening primrosis oil and grape oil
• Square
• Glycerin
• Hyaluronic acid

Not

• Perfumes such as peppermint, cinnamon, citrus or lavender
• Oleic acids like argan oil and olive oil

“I think lip oils can be fantastic if they have the right ingredients,” said Small. “All that without perfumes is what you want to look for in lip products. And you can go to a more traditional lip balm. The lip balms are thicker. They are based on wax and more protective.”

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