The “luxury luxury” is back while high -end brands seek to bounce back

“Loud Luxury” is ready for a return while sick fashion houses are trying to inject a feeling of novelty and novelty in their creations to win tired buyers.

A wave of new creative directors of brands such as Gucci, Chanel and Versace, and the arrival of new Dry The CEO Luca de Meo, is seen in the process of eliminating the subtlety of “quiet luxury” in favor of the styles of declaration, in what analysts say could be a turning point for industry.

“We are seeing a slightly more visible luxury at the moment,” said Carole Madjo last month, responsible for the search for European luxury products in Barclays.

“Luxury fashion is a cycle. Now, with a calm luxury having a few years, you want something else. Back to my novelty, thesis of novelty: I think that is the goal.”

The upheaval of clothing occurs while the luxury sector is struggling to overcome a series of opposite winds, from commercial prices to the gentle feeling of consumers, following its boom from the cocovid time.

Ultra-luxury brands Brunello Cucinelli,, Hermes And LvmhLoro Piano sailed in this widely unscathed slowdown, while their super rich customers continued to spend big on discreet seam and high -end handbags.

But for many brands, the discreet opulence of calm luxury, which slipped in the foreground in 2022 alongside the popularity of shows as “succession” of HBO, no longer cuts it. This could announce a new era of large logos, daring brand and distinctive conceptions dominating the bridges in high streets.

“There is no longer the same level of desire for many products across the market, pushing all the major brands to change creative direction in search of relevance,” said Yanmei Tang, analyst at Third Bridge, by e-mail.

A brand with this change is Burberry. Under the direction of CEO Josh Schulman, the company once again adopts its image of the British heritage after years of management changes, the fall in sales and the dupes of the armor of Supes of Supe with its eponymous check trench and its signature trench.

Financial director Kate Ferry declared during a call for results in the second quarter that the collection of the heritage of the company’s declaration, which included two full checkered parts, was “reviving the brand’s desire” and positioning Burberry among a large base of consumers as “a luxury brand with a large universal attraction”.

Gucci is seen targeting the same redevelopment under its new artistic director Demna Gvasalia, whose conceptions which postpone the limits have courted the controversy on the small Balenciaga label of the Mother Kering company.

DryThe assistant CEO and the development of the brand, Francesca Bellettini, said last week that a “first index of the vision (Demna) for Gucci” would have come in September, with a complete deployment of the collection from the beginning of 2026.

Fashionistas and investors have long been waiting for a catalyst to overthrow Gucci’s fortune, because sales have suffered, in particular lower demand in China. The arrival next month of the former Renault Luca de Meo chief as a CEO of Kering should also inject an external perspective and brand expertise.

“The main thing is to bring back some desirability of the brand,” said Madjo. “Bring a novelty – something fresh that has never been seen before – is, I think, which could make Gucci again big.”

New creative and artistic tracks are also seen shaking things in Chanel, Bottega Venetta and the famous Besides Versace. MonclerAs for him, has chosen to experiment with rotating designers via his collection of geniuses, and Prada recently cited image adaptability among the virtues of the brand.

“What is beautiful in Prada is that it can be sporty, it can be glamorous. It is one of the rare brands that can allow us to play three or four games at the same time,” said the CEO of the Andrea Guerra group during a call for results last month.

Fashion houses hope that image revisions will be able to help inspire the interest of consumers who have become disillusioned by brands after significant price increases in the pandemic era have failed to reflect product innovation.

According to the UBS evidence laboratory, the price of luxury products increased an average record on average in 2022, well above the pre-cook rate of 1% and the 3% recorded this year in May.

Only high -end brands Hermès, Rolex and Richemont-Antnd Cartier was able to support significant price increases in 2025 – although many others have warned that prices could force their hand. Gucci, Burberry and Prada, on the other hand, increased prices, but to a smaller extent.

This is likely to propel another ditch between silent ultra-luxury brands and relatively more affordable labels.

Marcus Morris, portfolio director for European and global growth actions at the Bernstein Alliance, told CNBC last week that higher prices could now only be justified by “good brands, good management and good marketing of these brands”.

However, more modest pricing strategies can be what is necessary for difficulty brands seeking to regain market share and to force a wider consumer base.

“High -end flexible luxury brands have increased their prices a lot,” Luca Solca, head of the global luxury products sector in Bernstein, told CNBC. “Brands with a more moderate price approach (are doing) well … which will potentially benefit from this common ground.”

Indeed, at a noisy luxury era, he could play in their favor.

“It could be less a problem to show this product, because it is still a little more affordable, let’s say, compared to other brands,” said Madjo.